Thursday 15 November 2012

Last Day of eclipse tour


November 15

Meeting at the hotel lobby at 8am, we were collected by bus to drop us off at the Kuranda Scenic Railway.  This steam locomotive railway takes one up the lush mountain towards the table lands, at a slow sedate pace, making many twists and turns along the way, going through many tunnels.  For those familiar with Puffing Billy in the Dandenongs, it feels similar.  However, many more people died completing this railway from either rock cave ins, disease, or snake bite.



Arriving at Kuranda, Ralph procured our tickets for the return trip down the mountain, this time via the Skyrail cablecar.  However, we had a couple of hours to spend in the picturesque village of Kuranda first.
Mum and I had morning tea, and had company



The last official event of our tour was a nice way to end it.  I’m still sad about totality, and will probably ruminate over it for a while, wondering if we could’ve done anything differently on eclipse day.  But that’s life for ya – got to get used to dealing with disappointments!
Off to Melbourne for some down time at Mum's house now.


Tuesday 13 November 2012

Eclipse Day



November 14

This year, there have been three special solar observing events that I’ve been looking forward to.
-The May annular eclipse; from Toronto I was able to observe a partial annular eclipse from the airport with some friends before the sun set.
-In June, the Transit of Venus – a rare event which will not occur again for over a century.  A group of us observed first and second contact from the Toronto RASC’s observatory in the Collingwood area before sunset
AND
-A total eclipse of the sun.  I’ve been solar observing for some time.  Indeed, I was the person who started the Toronto RASC’s solar observing sessions.  I have been observing the sun in hydrogen alpha and white light for years, but have never been fortunate enough to witness a solar eclipse.

Which brings me to today.

Wake up call at 3am, mustering in the hotel’s lobby at 3.45.  Our intrepid leader Dr. Ralph Chou got us on the bus, and off we went.  Lots of traffic heading north, not so much heading south.  Arriving at the Wangetti beach site (which was pre arranged a long time ago) police and emergency services where present.  Roads closed off, many people walking the 400m to the beach.  Ralph’s  friend had stayed overnight at the beach, setting aside a spot for us, away from the tide line, and on some vegetation higher than those further down on the beach.

We setup under starlight – Orion was high overhead, Venus and Jupiter blazing brightly.  A good omen, or so we thought.


As first contact descended at 5.44am, clouds obscured the view, however shortly afterwards we were able to see the moon munching it’s way across the solar disc. 

Yay for that at least.
Would we see totality?  The clouds looked like they might be cooperating…..


As the seconds ticked down to 6.38 second contact (or totality) a cloud moved in front of the sun at the last moment.  SHIT!
Suffice it say, I was not a happy camper.  These things happen I know, but I feel very disappointed not to have seen Bailey’s Beads, the Diamond Ring and of course the solar corona streaming out from behind the moon.

Other folks were more philosophical about it – I’ll get over it - it's been a great trip otherwise.  But my 2012 solar trifecta was not to be. 

Guess I’ll have to wait until 2017.

Cairns day 2




November 13

Although tomorrow is eclipse day, we had the day off.  Took another boat trip (this time shorter) to Green Island – same setting up routine as yesterday upon arrival.  The winds and tides had churned up the bottom of the ocean somewhat, limiting visibility under the water.

The fruit bats are everywhere!  There were hundreds of them hanging from the mango trees outside the hotel.  So cute……..

Eclipse day tomorrow – forecast is looking a bit iffy.

Reef


November 12
Arrived in Cairns late last night – today after rising early (again) we went to the Great Barrier Reef on a large Quicksilver catamaran – there were about 400 of us on the boat I believe.
The weather was choppy – my sister was turning green pretty much the whole way out to the reef – about an hour or so.

The cat sidles up to a large pontoon, which is anchored in place.  After transferring to it, we got outfitted with masks, flippers and snorkels (and black coverall suits, to protect not only from the sun, but from stinging jellyfish).

We saw a lot of fish, but the reef that we were sitting over was looking pretty bleached (ie, dead) L  Global warming is considered a culprit.  


Saturday 10 November 2012

Lest we forget

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November 11

Darwin is a very resilient and interesting place.  In recent history, twice decimated. 
During WW2, from 1942 to 1943 Darwin was repeatedly bombed by the Japanese, over 60 times.
In 1974 Cyclone Tracy almost completely flattened the city, with about 90% of the buildings destroyed.  New, extremely strict building codes are the norm now.  Gord, our bus guide, was telling us that even an outdoor shed has to withstand winds of 300 km/hr.

Today is Remembrance Day – we hope to find the Cenotaph after brekky.

http://www.anzacday.org.au/education/tff/memorials/nt.html

Update - just got back to the hotel after walking around Darwin for a few hours, and observing the Remembrance Day ceremony at the Cenotaph this morning.

 

Wonderful view


November 10
Ubirr, where there were more wonderful rock drawings, walking up to the height of that point of land where we were treated to a 360 degree view of the local environment.

Throughout this whole trip, I’ve been thinking of the astrospouse, and how much he would’ve loved this all so far.

I’ve got a sore throat today – frack me can’t I get better now?  C’mon body – cooperate.

We were reminded constantly to keep drinking – the bus drivers along the way have had water jugs under the bus to keep our bottles topped up.  

Back to Darwin on the bus. 

"That's not a knife..."


November 9

Stepping out of the airport in Darwin was like stepping out into a sauna.
After spending the night in Darwin, we drove a couple of hours to Kakadu.


This “Crocodile Dundee” territory is unworldly – replete with ancient cave drawings and a lush, verdant river system teaming with life.  We went on a 2 hour boat cruise on the Yellow River, and in that time saw countless birds and crocodiles – and this was in the hottest part of the day when we were not expected to see much.  Wonderful.


Spent the night inside a crocodile.

http://www.holidayinn.com/hotels/us/en/jabiru/jabgg/hoteldetail?cm_mmc=mdpr-_-GoogleMapsAU-_-hi-_-jabgg


Thursday 8 November 2012

Another day, another flight

Can I say it was great, after we got to the hotel in Alice Springs yesterday, just to do nothing? 

Drive from the Desert Springs Hotel in Yulara to Alice Springs took us about 5 hours through the arid terrain.  We were being "chased" by a large thunderstorm - lightning was on our left and right.  The rain was torrential.  We broke the drive up at a few places along the way, including a camel farm.  No stop at the Henbury meteor crater unfortunately :(  Boooo - i think the bus driver wasn't able to go off road. 



Upon arrival at the hotel, Mum did laundry, we used the gym and pool, had dinner and had a quiet night.

Today in the Alice we went to the Royal Flying Doctor Service;

http://www.flyingdoctor.net/
What a fantastic service, providing medical care to all who need it throughout the vast outback.  The cattle stations  (often covering thousands of sq kms) have landing strips. 

We then went to the reptile centre - well worth a visit.

Then off to the school of the air - using the internet to educate kids over vast distances -when we were there they were doing an astronomy lesson!




and then off to the telegraph station - which I thought would be boring, but was actually wonderful.  Spent some time talking to a local aboriginal guide who had been through the residential school system as a kid, just before WW2.  He described seeing Japanese bombers flying overhead, and how he saw the pilot clearly enough to see that he took his goggles off to peer down, and how they waved at each other (!).   It was also interesting hearing his impression of being taken away from his family by missionaries, how kids were randomly designated religions and weren't encouraged to see their family or follow aboriginal traditions.  He didn't seem to harbour any grudges, but it's certainly a shameful part of Australian history, like in Canada and elsewhere.

 Off to the Anzac memorial, where there's a great view of Alice Springs, before getting to the airport to fly a couple of hours north to Darwin, where I write this.  Remembrance Day is in 3 days.







Tuesday 6 November 2012

The Alice


November 7

Early start to Alice Springs – driving past Mt Conner, the flat topped mountain just a bit shorter than Uluru – from the highway it looks huge.  Lake Amadeus salt take system. Not what I thought – I guess because of all the rain, not a white surface at all, but a brown flat area.  Alice Springs got 26mm of rain last night – we were lucky that we were spared the rain for a lovely astronomical dinner.  I was up at 4.30 (not because I wanted to) so I went outside to look at Crux – the Southern Cross that was now visible.  First time I’ve seen it since arriving.

Quiet night here - full day tomorrow and we're ending the night in Darwin.

Some astronomy.....and canapes

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November 6

Sunrise at Uluru – up at 4am, on the bus, out to the designated sunrise area (as opposed to the other designated sunset viewing area)
Visitor centre
Walk to some of the points of interest at Uluru
Breakfast at 9.30, then day at leisure before the “Sounds of Silence” dinner later that night.  Saw an Aboriginal story teller and artists at the resort, vegged by the pool.
I loved watching the paintings by the artists develop dot by dot – over the course of an hour they could take a blank piece of canvas, and turn it into a story.



Around 6pm we were collected from the hotel (along with a bus load of our closest friends) to go to our dinner site in the desert. 
Greeted with a glass of champagne and canapés, the orange sun clipping the horizon next to Kata Tjuta on one side, and Uluru on another side, I could tell this was going to be a special evening.
As the sunset we were served pumpkin soup along with some more wine before the buffet dinner.   Barramundi fish, lamb, lots of veggies, salads, I even tried the (chewy) kangaroo.  Desert.

That, however, was not the highlight of the evening.  For me, it was when the guided star talk started, although some of us were way ahead of the speaker.  Jumping up to move away from the dim lights of the table lamp to gaze at the sky naked eye or with binoculars.  As the sky darkened, the Magellanic clouds popped into view.  Crux was not yet visible, and would not rise until pre-dawn.  In my 10x50 binoculars the Small Magellanic Cloud was joined, in the same field of view, by 47 Tucana, a wondrous globular cluster. 
One could indeed mistake the Magellanic clouds for the “regular” kind.  These satellite galaxies of our Milky Way do indeed look like high fuzzy blobby clouds – although they don’t move if you watch them ;)  One can see the Great Andromeda Galaxy from the northern hemisphere as a naked eye object from dark skies.  However, it is relatively small, just a small tiny smudge.  In comparison, the Magellanic clouds dare you to miss them.



47 Tuc was also the object in the telescope that the star talker provided – truly an astonishing globular cluster;  the multitude of millions of stars balled up tightly in the middle, spreading outwards filling the field of view of the eyepiece.

Mum seems to be having a good time so far – she’s talking to the other folks, and I’ve frequently heard her laughing.  Notably last night as the large lady bug type creatures who shared our table proceeded to move a package of butter.


Getting warmer....

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November 5
Flight to Uluru
What a day.  Getting to Australia is a long trip, but once on the flight there was nothing to do for the next day while we winged our way to the other side of the planet.  It’s a fair exchange.   I actually don’t mind the journey – I think of our ancestors for whom travel was much more of an ordeal.  We’re so lucky that we live in a time when we can be in Toronto one day, and Sydney the next (although it’s actually 2 days later with the time difference!).
However, today we woke in Sydney and spent the evening watching the sunset at Uluru – was a very busy day.  Hauling bags, getting on a plane, getting on a bus, getting to a hotel, getting back on a bus, touring around to check out the environs, etc. 

Clouds, thunderstorms and turbulence on the way to Uluru – wasn’t expecting that!  The last time I was here many years ago it was just a hot desert.  Now, there was green everywhere.  Stepping off the plane onto the tarmac is fun – I miss doing that.  As we stepped out we were greeted with the blast of hot air.  Ahhhhhhh – I was in heaven.  The cold dreary Toronto weather of late and my illness had me craving heat.


Your shoes will get stained red – this omnipresent colour is at the moment punctuated with green, yellow and black from all of the rain.   The green grasses that follow the rain, the Mowbara trees that the local Aboriginal population have depended on for millennia, the yellow spinifex grasses, and the black charred earth from recent fires (thunderstorms – although the fires are an important part of a healthy changing landscape here – seeds from some of the plants are only released via the heat from the fires, etc).

http://www.environment.gov.au/parks/uluru/

Kata Tjuda walk for only about 40 minutes – not enough time to see this impressive chain.  The downside to being on a bus tour – sticking to a schedule.

Sunset at Uluru – rain earlier in the day, but we were still able to see it. 
The most glorious sunset opposite the rock in the sky.  That particulate matter from earlier bushfires came in handy.



Family stuff


November 4
Free day – Mum and I walked around aimlessly for a short time looking for flowers to take to our family dinner later tonight – how I hate just aimlessly wandering around a bustling noisy city while walking on concrete.
It was great to see my distant cousins – many of them I had never met, and one I hadn’t seen for 21 years.  Wonderful night of food and talking.

Sydney - whirlwind


November 3
Bus tour of Sydney
Over the harbour bridge, Bondi. Manly, harbour boat lunch cruise, opera house.
Yes, I’m glossing over that day.   It’s a bit of a blurr.



Busy first day


Nov 2
Arriving in Sydney under cloudy skies – I had booked tickets to the Sydney Observatory later that night.

We stayed in the Menzies Hotel in the city – walking distance to many local attractions. 



The concierge was a lovely guy who called the female patrons (and maybe the guys too) “darling” and was extremely helpful.  Popped over to Telstra to get a 4G broadband internet stick for the trip – free wifi in Australia is rare, and internet at hotels can get expensive.

Ralph had booked us seats at the “Fish on the Rocks” restaurant just down the street from the observatory before the observatory tour, and to welcome us to Australia – our group is going to cover a lot of ground together.
It was “big plates small food” food.  My scallop appetizer (or entrĂ©e as one says for the initial course in Australia) consisted of 4 small scallops.  Service was good, food was wonderful (even though it was petite) and prices were, ummmm, consistent with the real estate.

Walking to the observatory, we headed uphill.   Fruit bats flew overhead, starting their night of hunting.  Their shadowy silhouettes zipping overhead, encouraging us on as we slogged up the steep hill. (nb – fit freaks were running up and down those multitude of stairs)



Welcomed by the volunteers at the observatory, we went into their 2 domes.   Cloudy skies  - not great observing weather.   And I was feeling like shit – suffice it to say I didn’t last too long unfortunately – as someone who volunteers a fair amount for an astronomy club, it’s great to connect with like minds.

Getting there is half the fun

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Oct 31

Leaving Toronto under a haze of codeine – would not recommend flying to the other side of the planet with bronchitis.
I’m sure my uncontrolled coughing was slightly disconcerting to my fellow travelers; being not able to rest or sleep also meant that the business class seat that I had taken so long to save for on points was wasted on me.  However at least when I felt nauseous I was able to lie in the foetal position.
Taking my antibiotics, I rued the timing of this illness – I haven’t been sick in a long time. 
The purser was extremely nice to me – he kept coming and checking on me, bringing me fluids, asking me if I was OK.  Go Air Canada.
Boooo freaking hooooo I hear you say – poor me!!  Yes I know –I’m very lucky to be able to be going on this trip.

*Cough*

Eclipse trip to Australia, 2012



Bestway trip with the Toronto Centre of the Royal Astronomical Society of Canada
All pictures copyright Katrina Ince-Lum

Ostensibly, I’m on a trip to see one of natures wonders, a total solar eclipse.  My first. This rare phenomena gathers people from all over the world to watch as the moon passes in front of the sun, turning day into night.  By a freak of nature, our relatively large moon is almost an exact fit.  Watching streamers from the Sun’s corona that we would not normally be able to see fan outwards from our star as the moon helpfully creates a shade,  watch animals prepare for what they think is night, see stars and planets pop into view that are normally visible at night instead of the day, see the phenomena of Bailey’s Beads as the craggy craters of the moon along the limb line up with the sun, the diamond ring as the last point of light meets as a bright exclamation mark, etc.

However, this is also a family event for me – along for the ride is my Mum.  We don’t get to see each other too often.  She lives in Melbourne, Australia (where I grew up) and I live in Toronto, Canada.  She’s my companion and room-mate with our group of 22 – I haven’t shared a room with my Mum since I was about 3, so this should be interesting.  My hope is that she’ll have some fun, and find something in common with my astro-geek friends.

I’m going to ramble on for a bit as things come up, and as I time permits.  It’s my first blog, so we’ll see how it goes.